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Browse through these commonly asked irrigation question, or use the Ask Expert search in the left column to search these and other information pages. Still can't find an answer to your question? Ask us with the form in the left column!
Rain Bird Sprinklers Not Rotating
I have Rain Bird rotor sprinklers where I work. One of the sprinklers will not turn when all others will. Is there something I could check?
It may be that the rotor has debris blocking the gears causing it not to rotate. Try carefully taking out the insides and rinsing them with water to get all the dirt and rocks out.
Another likely cause is that the sprinkler is worn out and the gears inside are stripped. If this is the case, you will need to replace the sprinkler. For instructions on taking it apart or finding a replacement model, please find the model of your sprinkler in our rotor sprinkler catalog and review the PDF's located on it's item page.
Do Hunter PGP rotors come with nozzles?
If I purchase Hunter PGP Rotors, do I get the nozzles, or are they a separate purchase?
How to Adjust Hunter Rotors
I need some information about how to adjust the Hunter PGP 4" sprinkler head. I have them installed at my home, and have a key, but I do not have any information about how to actually adjust it.
Rechargeable 9v Batteries for Controllers
Where can I obtain rechargeable 9v batteries for my controller's battery backup?
Rechargeable 9v batteries can be purchased at most stores that sell batteries. If you are purchasing them for a sprinkler controller that does not recharge the batteries itself, then you will need to make sure you charge them once a year and replace them quickly.
If you are purchasing batteries for a sprinkler controller that does recharge the battery itself, then make sure you only use rechargeable batteries. Installing non-rechargeable batteries in these controllers could cause damage to the battery and the controller.
Always refer to your owners manual of your exact model to make sure the correct battery types are being used.
Weed Barrier Fabric for Privacy
Could you tell me if your weed barrier fabric could be used to create privacy by attaching it to an existing chain link fence? In other words, is this fabric thick enough to block the view of my nosy neighbors?
Weed barrier is designed to block the sun from reaching seeds below, so yes, it will block the view of your neighbors. The only things to consider are:
1. It will not look very pretty.
2. It may be destroyed by wind.
It is designed to prevent plants from growing up through it, but it does not hold up well to movement. There are also different types of fabrics that will hold up differently. For this application you would want a woven fabric instead of a spun bound fabric.
Replacing Spray or Impact Sprinklers with Rotor Sprinklers
I moved into a house with a ten year old sprinkler system that has impact sprinkler heads. I have had trouble with some of the heads because they are so old, so I am thinking of changing them out for newer rotor sprinkler heads.
First, it is possible to replace them all. However there are a few main issues you will need to consider:
1. Take into consideration the inlet size and casing height of the sprinkler you are replacing. If the original sprinkler has a 3/4" inlet, but the one you want to replace it with has a 1/2" inlet, you will need to use some sort of adapter. If the original in-ground sprinkler was 4" tall and the new one is taller or shorter, you may need to install a Swing Joint to accommodate the height difference.
2. Rotor sprinklers should never be put on the same zone as spray heads. Rotors may use 2 GPM to cover a 50 ft diameter circle while a spray head will use 2 GPM to cover a 20 ft diameter circle. Sprays will put out more water in a given time than rotors.
3. Sprays and rotors are designed for different distances. Spray heads are designed to spray from 4 ft to 17 ft. Small rotors spray 15 ft - 30 ft. Medium Rotors are designed to go 25 ft to 50 ft. Make sure that the sprinklers you are installing are made to deliver the correct distance and water volume for your unique situation.
*NOTE: One exception to rule 1 & 2 is that you can combine rotors with spray sprinklers fitted with Rotary Sprinkler Nozzles. These are special nozzles that produce the same flow-rates as rotors but at shorter distances.
Usually if you need to replace impact style rotors (like the Maxi Paw) you will want to use a small rotor like the Hunter PGJ or the Rain Bird 3500. These have 1/2" inlets and can be adjusted for shorter distances.
Finding the Right Valve Model for Replacement
I have a rain bird sprinkler valve that no longer works. It is located in a small valve box with no room for cutting the PVC from the manifold of four other valves attached to it. I can't see a model number on it, but I can remove the defected solenoid that needs to be replaced.
My question is where can I find the model number on the valve or solenoid so I can replace the right part (solenoid)?
The model numbers are generally stamped on top of the sprinklers along the edge. If you cannot find it there, then you could search through valve pictures online to find the one that looks like yours.
Rain Bird uses 3 solenoids:
-Item #10025 - This solenoid is for the DV valves which are the most common Rain Bird valves for homes.
-Item #10022 - This solenoid is for the commercial valves that are rarely found in homes.
-Item #9868 - This is a latching solenoid that is only used with battery controllers (like the TBOS Controllers). It will not work with regular controllers.
Sprinkler Zone / Valve won't shut off
We have a Toro Sprinkler System installed. The company who installed it is no longer in business. My problem is one of my zones (or valves) will not shut off. Even when it is turned off at the control panel, the one zone still remains on (water is still going through it). The only way I can turn this zone off is when I turn off the main water supply to the whole outside yard. I realize that there is something wrong with the valve- Is this an electrical problem that could be fixed at the control valves, or do I have to start digging?
This problem deals with the valve. Here are the most common causes:
1. The valve is already manually turned on.
2. A pebble or piece of debris is preventing the diaphragm from closing all the way.
3. The diaphragm has a tear in it and so isn't closing all the way.
4. The solenoid has gone bad and is stuck in the open position.
Here is a link to a sprinkler valve troubleshooting tutorial with more information on the causes and how you can fix it.
I have a 6" T-bird line rotor. A Lilly has been planted next to it, and now needs an additional 6" rise. Is there any rotor product on the market that will get 12" high out of a 6" body. I don't want to dig it up. It is next to a driveway, so adding a riser would be unsafe. I'm envisioning a 6" rotor that has 2 concentric risers - a smaller diameter riser that pops up out of the main riser. Giving it a total rise of 10 to 12 inches. I'm probably dreaming and will have to get out the shovel and dig a deeper hole for a 12" body to be installed.
There is no way to extend the rotors without raising the casing. If you cannot use a nipple/riser to make the sprinkler taller, than you only have one other option: Replace the 6" rotor with a 12" rotor. This will require a little digging but it shouldn't be too bad. Most 12" rotors come with a side outlet to connect to so you don't need to take the piping any lower.
*Remember to install a drain in the bottom outlet if you live in an area where freezing occurs.
Zones won't turn on
I have the Hunter SRC 900i and for some strange reason the controller for my Hunter sprinkler is not functioning properly. For instance, zone 2,3,5 and 6 will not respond when using the manual single zone or manual all zones. I have the same malfunctioning issue when I've tried to use the controller on automatic. I am now operating the system by going to the valve box and turning the zones on. What kind of damage am I doing using the system this way until the repair person arrives?
Manually turning on the valves will not do any damage as long as it is done properly.
It sounds like you may have issues with your common wire. The same wire (generally white) will be used for all the valves within a valve box. You will want to check these connections. You will also want to check for any recent digging where the wires may have been cut. If you cannot find the problem then you might want to pay a professional contractor to check it out for you.
Another issue could be that the controller is going bad. You will want to check the date of manufacture on it and the warranty on that model.
Valve Box Location
We are installing a sprinkler systems at our home. The current design has the in-ground valve box located in a low part of our property that tends to accumulate water. During the winter I am concerned that the valve box will fill with water, freeze and damage the valves.
Is this a concern and/or should I relocate the control boxes to a higher location?
This is a concern. There are three questions you need to ask when finding a location for the valve boxes:
1. Will I have easy access to the valve box in the future?
*Keep in mind the plants around it. You won't want them growing over because you will need to access it in the future.
2. Will anything be damaged if a valve breaks and floods the area?
*Keep them away from window wells or plants that can't handle lots of water. Also think of your neighbors house.
3. Will water be able to drain away from the valve box so it doesn't always have water in it?
* Water filled valve boxes make it harder to work in the box. Valves and solenoids are designed to function under water but poor wire connections could be damaged. There is also the problem of freezing during the winter.
Valve won't operate
I have a Rain Bird System in my yard. One of the 6 stations does not operate. How can I diagnose the problem? What are typical problems that would not let it operate? The controller indicates the valve is getting a signal.
Here is a list of the main things that will cause a valve to not operate:
1. Flow control is turned all the way down.
* Check the flow control on top of the valve. (Some valves do not come with flow control). Open the flow control all the way to see if it is causing the problem.
2. Is water getting to the valve?
* Manually turn on the valve. If water does not come out then make sure there isn't another valve between it and the main line. If you cannot find another valve then you may need to have a professional contractor diagnose the problem.
3. Wire connections could be bad.
* Check the connections at the controller and in the valve box. Make sure they are tight connections.
4. Wire could be cut or broken.
* Look for any new digging between the controller and the valves. One of the wires could have been cut by a shovel, a dog or a gopher, by a stake being put in the ground, etc. Manually turn the zone on at the controller and test the voltage at the controller and also at the valve. It should read around 24 volts. If you do not feel comfortable doing this then have a professional contractor do it for you.
5. The solenoid could be bad.
* Unhook the wires going to the problem valve and connect them to a valve that does work. Then manually turn on the zone at the controller. If it works on the other valve then the solenoid is bad on the problem valve. If it does not work then the problem is the wiring.
Pop up sprinkler sizes
When rotors and spray heads say they are 4" pop-ups what does that mean?
Spray heads and rotors sizes are generally characterized by 2", 3", 4", 5", 6", or 12". These dimensions are referring to the height they actually pop up and not the size of the body. A 4" spray head could have a body length of 6". It is a very common mistake for people to purchase sprinklers based on the body length instead of the height they pop up.
Sprinklers vs. the Lawn Mower
My sprinkler heads are constantly being destroyed by my yard guy. They are set up a bit high, and the mower gets them every time. My grass is thick and high. What is the tallest pop up that you carry?
There are two issues that appear here:
1. Sprinklers are sitting a bit too high.
* Sprinklers on risers:
- You will need to change out the riser style to swing joints. You will need to either purchase a swing joint or purchase funny pipe and adapters. This will give you the flexibility to adjust the height of the sprinklers in the ground.
* Sprinklers on swing joints:
- Dig down around the sprinkler and lower it so the top of the sprinkler is flat with the ground.
2. Need a taller sprinkler.
* The most common size for spray heads is 4". If you have 2" or 3" heads then you definitely will want to replace them with 4". Remember sizes are determined by the height they pop up and not the length of their bodies. You will need to use a swing joint (see answer above) to install a taller sprinkler.
Leaking Sprinkler when System is Turned Off
I have a problem with a pop-up head leaking after the system shuts off. I have replaced the head and it still leaks. If you can give me some advice it would be useful.
Leaking sprinklers generally do not have anything to do with the sprinkler. The problem is either from water draining out of the pipe after the sprinkler system has been shut off, or it is a problem with the valve. Here are the main causes and the solutions:
A. Water in the pipe is draining out of the sprinkler: Water naturally flows to the lowest point in the line when the system is turned off. If you have a slope in a line then the water will drain out of the lowest sprinkler and flood the area around the sprinkler every time you turn off your sprinklers. This over watering can create swampy conditions around that head.
* Solution: To prevent this you need to install a check valve on the sprinkler. They are made by all manufacturers and come in the size of your sprinkler. Check valves prevent the water from flowing through the sprinkler once the valve has been turned off. If you install a check valve then you will have to blow out your system when winterizing it.
B. Valve Diaphragm is damaged or dirty: The second cause deals with the valve not closing completely. To fix the problem you need to take apart the valve and rinse off the components or replace them. Here is the list of things to look for:
WARNING: TURN OFF WATER MAIN BEFORE TAKING YOUR VALVE APART!
1. Rocks or debris under the diaphragm
* Solution: Rinse off diaphragm and quickly flush system before putting parts back together. This will clean out debris that may have fallen into valve or pipe.
2. Debris under the solenoid
* Solution: Take off solenoid. PLUNGER AND SPRING MAY NOT BE ATTACHED TO THE SOLENOID AND WILL EASILY GET LOST. Rinse parts. Quickly flush system and then put parts back together.
3. Worn out or damaged diaphragm
* Solution: Replace the diaphragm.
Timer comes on by itself
I have a Rain Bird ESP-6TM system that is almost three years old. Just recently it has started coming on all by itself. It had done this once before so I shut off the water to the system and when I turned back on the water today Zone 1 came on even though it is not programed to come on. I have unplugged it and taken out the battery to try and reset the system with no success. Any thoughts on what might be causing my problems.
The first thing you will want to check is all the programs. Most controllers come with 3 or 4 programs and are characterized by A,B,C, and D. On top of that they will each have 3 or 4 start times in each program. It sounds like program A is probably the main one and B, C, or D have start times in them. To deactivate programs you need to change all their start times to "0:00" or "OFF".
If you are having problems with valves staying on even when the controller is off then see the following tutorials:
Adding Valves to an Existing Manifold
I'm trying to install new automatic sprinkler valves into an existing system and having trouble lining up the new valves and manifold with the existing 1" sprinkler lines. My question is can I use the 1/2" funny pipe (with reduction bushings, etc.) inside the valve boxes to help get the proper alignment?
Using funny pipe would definitely not be a good idea. It is flexible enough but it would restrict the water greatly and your sprinklers would not function properly because of the reduced water pressure. There is flexible PVC that is designed for these type of applications. It uses regular PVC fittings so it is easy to work with.
In order to gain better control on my water costs and get a healthier garden, I am planning on getting a new controller. My existing controller is an outdoor model controlling six valves, I have a couple of questions:
- Should I be concerned about compatibility between my valves and the new controller?
- Is there any substantial difference between Hunter and Weathermatic brands that I should take into account?
All controllers and valves are compatible with each other as long as they are 24v. Hunter, Rain Bird, Irritrol, Toro, Weathermatic, and Orbit will all work with each other. The main differences between controllers are quality, number of zones, number of programs, number of start times, add-ons, master valve option, and the way they are programmed.
Replacing maxi paw sprinklers
I have a yard full of Rain Bird 2045a maxi paw sprinklers. They fill up with nuts, sticks and sand and need care to keep them clean. Would you recommend replacing them with rotors such as the Rain Bird 5000 series, and if so what would you recommend? I can adjust the spray pattern and the arc with the maxi paws.
The Rain Bird 5000 Series rotor would be a good replacement for it. You could also use the Hunter PGP.
A couple things to keep in mind:
1. Rotor sprinklers are not as wide as the Maxi-paw so you will need to fill in the space around them with dirt.
2. Rotor sprinklers are not as long as the Maxi-paw so you will need a riser or swing pipe to raise the connection point. Also remember that the Maxi-Paw can take 1/2" or 3/4" but the 5000 series and the PGP only have 3/4" inlets.
Full Circle vs. Adjustable Rotors
I am looking at buying and installing about 35 Rain Bird 5000 Plus Series rotor sprinklers in my yard. Is there any advantage to using full circle rotors in the middle as opposed to the part-circle type? It would be simpler to order all the same kind.
We recommend using the full circle rotors when possible. There is less stress on the gears because they are not stopping and reversing. They are also a little more efficient because the stream doesn't get paused while the gears reverse.
Most adjustable rotors will rotate a full 360 degrees, however it is a reversing full circle instead of a continuous full circle.
Pipe under driveway
I want to force a steel pipe under my concrete drive. What inside diameter pipe should I use in order to get the plastic pipe through the steel pipe to get under my driveway?
We would recommend you put 2", 3", or 4" pipe under the driveway and sidewalks. If you only put a 1.5" pipe then you will only be able to fit one 1" pipe through. Using larger diameter pipe leaves you with more options in the future. But in your situation where you are putting it under an existing drive way you will want to use 1.5" pipe if you only need one piece of pipe to fit inside.
What replacement head do I need?
How do I tell which replacement pop-up spray head I need?
Basically you can easily replace any spray head with any other brand as long as it is the same pop-up size. You can also replace it with a different size but you will have to dig a deeper hole. The nozzles are the more important part to pay attention to. You will need to know the distance and angle that needs to be covered. Hunter, Rain Bird, Weathermatic, Irritrol, and Orbit all use the same female threads on their nozzles. Toro uses a male thread and it will not work with any other manufacturer.
Take out unneeded sprinkler
I have a sprinkler system with Rain Bird T40 nozzles. I need to close off / block off one of my sprinklers (due to some new landscaping work) but keep the other sprinklers in that zone active. Do you have an insert that can disable an individual sprinkler?
The easiest way is to take out the sprinkler and cap the fitting with a threaded cap. This is the easiest way and will give you the option of using it again in the future.
White Screw Driver / Adjustment Tool
We just moved into our house and got sprinklers installed. Somehow we have lost the little white (screw driver) that adjusts the sprinkler heads for flow of water and etc. Is there anywhere we can buy one or order one?
It sounds like you are referring to the Hunter Adjustment Tool or the Weathermatic Tool. It is always a good idea to have 2 or 3 of them around the house and near the controller. They can be ordered off our website.
Replace Richdel valves
I have a old sprinkler system with a Richdel 205 APR solenoid valve, and from what I can gather from the internet, Irritrol must have bought them out. Please let me know the equal to the Richdel 205APR valve because I need to replace the old valves.
Richdel and Hardie are now owned by Irritrol. Some of the Irritrol valves and solenoids are still available. The valves can be replaced by any other manufacturer's valves.
The things you need to know are:
1. Do you need Slip or Threaded inlets?
2. Do you need Flow Control?
Turn off sprinkler
I have a rotor type head (like the 5000 or T-3 series) in my yard. One is placed in a very low area and I really don't need water there at all because the other areas drain to it. I can't figure out how to cut it off completely (just that one head). Could you tell me? It does have a screw adjust at the top but it only takes it from a 'broadcast' sprayer to a short distance area sprayer. I would like to turn all water off in this area only. Is there a way to just turn off this one head. My installer has long since left and this is the only problem I am having.
In this situation we would recommend you replace the sprinkler with a Rain Bird 5004 Plus sprinkler or the Hunter I-20 sprinkler. The flow on these sprinklers can be shut off by an adjustment. You can shut off the sprinkler but still easily turn it back on if needed.
Cleaning Valves in Spring
I have a Toro 264-06-03 remote control valves in my sprinkler system. Every spring when I turn the main water valve on, some valves seem to be stuck open. I have to disassemble each valve and reassemble them to get them to work. They are in a box in the ground and are very difficult to get at. Is there a reset valve or a better way to get these valves to work?
It sounds like your water isn't very clean in the spring. The best thing to do is install a filter in your main line that will catch the debris before they get stuck in your valves. Then you only need to clean the filter a few times a year. The most common screen size for homes is 50 Mesh.
Split Copper Tubing
I have a 1 inch copper tubing that is split. I'm wondering if a 1 inch compression coupler would fix the rupture
There are CTS (Copper Tube Size) compression fittings for copper pipe but the compression fittings we carry are IPS (Iron Pipe Size) fittings. We carry some that convert from CTS to IPS but this will not work in your situation. You should be able to purchase the needed fittings from you local plumbing supply.
Maxi-Paws and sprays on same zone?
It is never a good idea to mix rotors and sprays on the same zone. Spray heads could use 2 GPM to cover a 20' diameter while a Maxi-Paw will cover 60' diameter with the same amount of water. The sprays will over water while the Maxi-Paw will under water.
Clanging in pipes
I have a problem and can't find answers from anyone. I have a sprinkler system in my front yard and every time it changes zones or turns off the water pipes in my house make a loud booming noise. It didn't happen at first until the water department turned our water off to install something down the street and since then it does it all the time. I have called them and also the builder of my house but no one will give me any answers. Do you have some information about that?
It sounds like you are having an issue with water hammer. When the work was done down the street it may have increased your water pressure. Water hammer happens when the water is quickly shut off and it slams into whatever closed. The shock waves kick back and get bigger and bigger. It is kind of like an echo except it gets louder instead of quieter. Water hammer can cause damage to pipes and connections if it is not taken care of.
There are two things you can do:
1. There should be a pressure reducer in your house. Turn the pressure down. If there is not one then you could have one installed.
2. Install a water hammer arrestor. This will absorb the shock waves and prevent the water hammer.
Valve won't stop / close
I recently replaced the jar top, diaphragm, solenoid, etc. The whole top end of the valve on a zone that would not turn off. It solved the problem for 1 month. That zone is running on it's own again, I have to shut off the water supply to stop it. We are in the midst of a drought and watering restrictions apply. Can you shed any light on why only this valve is messed up. The previous valve was at least ten years old there are four other valves that are working fine. Can you suggest a cure?
It sounds like you have debris in your water. Install a filter on the mainline and flush out the system. To flush it out you will want to take the valve apart (with the water off) and then turn it back on for a few seconds. Then put the valve back together and you should be okay. If there are more issues then you might need to take a few other valves apart and flush it again. For more info you can click here.
I have a Weathermatic WM12-N that is not working. The outlet is working and the transformer is very hot, but nothing is on the display. The fuse is OK. I thought about replacing the transformer with your item #14167, but it has no picture or specs. First, does replacing the transformer seem like the correct next step, and, if yes, is #14167 the correct transformer for the WM12-N?
The first thing you will want to do is find out if the transformer is bad. Put a voltage meter on the common wire and the hot wire of the transformer. Refer to your owners manual to see which is which. You should get a reading of ~24V for a working transformer.
If the transformer does not work then you will need a replacement. The item you asked about is the transformer for the indoor WM12-N model. We currently do not have any of the transformers for the outdoor models.
If the transformer does work then try turning a zone on manually. Refer to owners manual. If it works then your display has gone out. If it does not work then the controller is probably bad and you will need a new one.
OPN message on Irritrol Controller
I have a Irritrol 9 station control system. On zone 5,6,7 and 8, it tells me opn. What does that mean. Please help me.
It could mean that there is a break in the connection to the valves. It is most likely caused by one of two things:
1. The wires going to the zones displaying the error message have been cut or disconnected in some way.
- Resolution: Check for digging between controller and valves. If you find a cut in the wiring then splice the ends together with waterproof wire connectors. Make sure that like colors are spliced together.
2. Common wire has come loose.
- Resolution: Check common wire running to valves that are not working. Check connection in valve boxes or anywhere wires are exposed. Most likely it is the connection in the valve box: http://www.sprinkler.com/buy/item/4300. It could also be the common connection at the controller.
Zone not working
I have a Rain Bird sprinkler controller, but it is not running all the zones properly. Zone 1 will not go on; it just skips to zone 2. Zone 1 is set for Tuesday at 30 minutes. Zone 2-11 work properly. Can you tell me why zone 1 is not working?
It could be a bad connection to the valve, the controller is having issues, or that the program is not set up properly. Most controllers have multiple programs and you may be looking at Program A but it could actually be Program B that is running. If you can turn Zone 1 on manually with the controller then it is most likely a programming issue. You may want to refer to the manual or call Rain Bird and they can walk you through the troubleshooting process.
Adding New Section
I have an existing system that uses Poly tubing. I am putting in a pool and will need to replace a good portion of the system. Should I switch the new section to PVC? Also, I have a considerable length that will need to go under a large concrete deck. Is PVC better or Poly for this? Or should I tunnel with a larger section of PVC drain pipe and then thread the PVC or Poly through the larger PVC? Either way I plan on doing this all before the deck is poured.
It is always a good idea to run a larger pipe under concrete. It allows you to access anything you run through it in case there are problems, and it also leaves options open. If in the future you need to run another pipe or electrical wiring under the concrete, you will have that option because of the larger pipe.
If you decide to just run the pipe for your system, there are a couple things to understand in order to choose which kind of pipe to use: (Both options are widely used)
- PVC joints usually last longer than Poly joints.
- Poly pipe is usually sold in rolls so you could have one solid piece of Poly running the entire length of the slab and eliminate the need for joints under the concrete.
Sprinkler that seeps
My lawn is pitched toward the street and the last sprinkler along the edge seeps / leaks when the system turns off. I dug it out and made sure all connections were tight. My nursery said there is a sprinkler for such a location that doesn't leak or seep all day, but they don't carry it. Can I get some from you folks?
There are two things that could cause the sprinkler to seep:
1. Left over water in pipes is draining out of the lowest head once the system turns off. This is called low- head drainage.
* We sell sprinklers with Check Valves that will prevent drainage each time. If you live in an area that gets below freezing then you will need to blow out the system to get all the water out.
2. The valve is not fully shutting off.
* Please read the following article for more information about troubleshooting a leaking valve here.
To read more about how to stop water from leaking from the sprinkler head after the system is turned off, click here.
I have a bunch of pop-up sprinklers, after they are done with the cycle they stay up until i push them down. Anyway to make them go back down on their own?
The most common reason a pop-up sprinkler “sticks up” is because debris is in the pop up body, the riser is damaged, or the riser seal is worn. To fix this, unscrew the body cap, pull out the sprinkler assembly, and examine the parts. Clean out debris and replace parts if needed.
Setting Clocks made Prior to 1999
I have a Hunter SRC that runs my system fine, but will not allow me to set it to the correct days for this year(2012). How can I fix this or will I need to purchase a Newer controller?
Because this is a leap year,until the end of February, you will need to set your clock to the year 2006. On March 1, 2012 you will need to set the clock to the year 2001. This will keep your days lined up for the next nine years. Although the year will not be correct, the days will be.